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Everything you need to know about vegetable leather jackets

VEGETABLE LEATHER JACKETS
Everything you need to know about plant-tanned jackets!

First and foremost, it is important to point out that the term 'leather' is governed by law and applies only to materials of animal origin. So, by definition, no such thing as leather is made from plants. However, there are alternatives to leather that have undergone chemical treatment: this is known as vegetable leather, i.e., leather that has been tanned using plants!

In this video workshop presented by Jean-Baptiste, you'll discover all the nuances between the different names used by the brands. You'll have all the information you need to choose your next jacket and learn about the alternatives to traditional leather.

What is tanning?

After being washed, raw hides remain highly hydrated. To make leather, they need to be treated to become "rot-proof": they become strong and supple, making them suitable for clothing manufacture.

Tanning is a technique that has existed for thousands of years. It involves leaving the hides to macerate in vats or large barrels, called fullers, containing tanning agents that transform the characteristics of the material.

How do I use the cleansing milk or delicate cream?

Tanning in vats

Tanning in fulling mills

There are several tanning methods: mineral tanning and vegetable tanning. While mineral tanning, particularly chrome tanning, has always been the most widespread technique, vegetable tanning is now, more than ever, at the heart of expectations.
Mineral tanning
Even today, it is the most widely used method of leather manufacture. Based on chromium in 90% of cases, aluminium or zirconium salts, mineral tanning is highly effective but is criticised for its polluting properties. The use of heavy metals poses both environmental and human problems. Since then, new techniques such as titanium tanning and new regulations, notably on wastewater treatment and working conditions for tanners, have been introduced to minimise the environmental impact.

Vegetable tanning
The ancestor of mineral tanning, it was long forgotten because of its cost: it took at least 2 years to treat a hide! Unlike mineral tanning, vegetable tanning uses 100% vegetable or organic tannins. Among the most commonly used are bark, wood, roots, leaves and fruit!

Bark: a vegetable tannin used to make leather

While the type of tanning alone does not determine the quality of the finished leather, it does play a role. Vegetable tanning is appreciated for its authenticity. The leather will develop a natural patina as it ages, making it a unique piece. It is also reputed to have a rounder, more sensual feel.

This type of tanning also has other advantages. For one thing, vegetable-tanned leather is recyclable by nature. Secondly, it is harmless to health and does not risk causing allergies!

f you're a fan of authentic products made using time-honoured techniques and with respect for people and the environment, then choose plant-based leather!

If you use a cleaning product, always test it on an inconspicuous area first!


How can you recognise vegetable leather?
You've chosen, but you still need to know where to find a vegetable-tanned leather jacket! Unfortunately, it's difficult to tell the difference between chrome-tanned leather and organically tanned leather. However, a few tips will help you determine whether your jacket has undergone chemical treatment.

The smell test

This is the simplest method but also the least reliable. All you have to do is smell the leather. If the material has a real leathery smell, that's a good sign. The most refined noses will even be able to recognise a hint of undergrowth. If, on the other hand, it gives off a strong, unpleasant smell, a so-called "chemical" smell, then there's a good chance that the hide has been chrome tanned.

The claw test

To carry out this test, simply 'scratch' or 'claw' the leather. If the leather is vegetable-based, the scratch you create should fade very easily simply by rubbing it with your fingers. Just be careful not to damage your jacket!

The flame test

It's best to avoid doing this test for fear of damaging your product! However, if you want to do the test, take a lighter. Light it against the leather and observe the reaction of the material. Your leather has been chrome-tanned if it produces a green ash residue.

While these tests can give you a helping hand, they are not 100% reliable, and we would always advise you to get in touch with a specialist you can trust to certify the origin of your skin. At Leather-Jack.com, for example, you'll find a selection of lambskin leather jackets.

These products are all marked with the following sticker:

You can find them by clicking on the link below:
Caring for vegetable leather

Like all real leather, vegetable-tanned leather needs to be cared for. And it needs special care. Without chemical treatment, it is more sensitive to water than standard leather. So, while any jacket should be waterproofed, we strongly recommend that you ensure your vegetable-tanned leather jacket is regularly waterproofed.

We also recommend nourishing it regularly with cleansing and nourishing milk to keep it looking as radiant as new. You can find all our care tips here to learn more about applying these products.

More videos and advice?

Want more? Join us on our YouTube channel and discover more video tutorials!You can also click below to access all Leather-Jack.com workshops!

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